The Basics of Different Trap Types
Traps are obviously a needed item but can be a confusing topic to new trappers just getting into the game. In the following section I’ll cover the basics of each trap and how to set them. Modern traps are designed to either be lethal or to hold than animal without harming it until checked by the trapper or wildlife operator. If you are looking for what size of trap to use, that is explained in the section of how to trap each individual furbearer.
Traps come in many different brands and price points. Normally the more expensive and higher quality the trap is, the less you will have to do to get it ready for the trapline. Cheaper traps are normally a bit “rough around the edges” and will need some adjustments, but can also make great traps if you have the time and skill to do so. Your best bet is to talk to a local experienced trapper to see what he uses that works good in your area and situation. If this isn’t an option, give a supply dealer a call and they will point you in the right direction. From there you can try a few different traps and see what you like the best.
Longspring Traps
The longspring trap was one of the original steel foothold traps dating back to early exploration of America. Although the design is old, longsprings are still produced and used today.
Setting
Depress the spring(s) and open the jaws
Flip the dog over the jaw and line it up with the pan
Raise the pan so the dog fits inside of the pan’s notch
Release the springs and the pan and dog will stay in place by the pressure of the spings
Coilspring Traps
Illustration of a Coilspring Trap
The coilspring trap was originally introduced in the last century to replace the older longsping and jump trap design. Since then, the technology has improved tremendously, and it is by far the most popular foothold trap being used by trappers today. Its compact design makes it easier for bedding and storage.
Setting
Depress the levers downward
Depress the spring(s) and open the jaws
Flip the dog over the jaw and line it up with the pan
Raise the pan so the dog fits inside of the pan’s notch
Release the levers and the pan and dog will stay in place by the pressure of the spings
Note that some coilspring traps are what is called a dogless design. This eliminates the dog so there is one less moving part. Instead of the dog going over the jaw to the pan, the pan will meet the jaw directly to keep the trap set.
Type of Jaws
Foothold traps come in multiple different jaw types and people often wonder if they should be running offset or closed jaw traps, and what the difference is between them. Offset traps have a gap between the jaws that ranges in width depending on the trap size. When fired the gap allows the jaws to close closer together, which allows the levers to close higher up the jaws. With the lever being higher up the jaws become harder to pull apart.
When you’re trapping coyote, bobcat, or wolves you’ll want to go with an offset jaw traps due to the size of their paws and how hard they can lunge. If you’re targeting coon, muskrat, mink, otter, or beaver, you’ll want to stick with a closed jaw. I’ve caught many a water animal over the years that was held by a toe or the tip of their paw that I’d never suggest anyone runs offset jaws for water trapping.
Different state laws and regulations dictate what jaw type you can and can’t use, so be sure to check your regulations. For instance, some states require the use of rubber jawed traps. I only suggest these traps when required by your regulations as they can be more of a pain to use and maintain than conventional jaw types.
Bodygrip Traps
Illustration of a Bodygrip Trap
Bodygrip traps, also commonly referred to as conibears, are lethal traps that the animals try to travel through. Once caught the animal will expire quickly, so please use common sense and only set these when there is no chance of a non-target animal. Bodygrips are extremely useful because depending on state law, they may be able to be checked at longer intervals.
How to Set
Depress the springs with a setting tool and engage the safeties
Unfold the jaws and latch the dog onto the trigger
Place safety tool on the jaws
Remove the safeties from the springs and then the safety tool from the trap
Dog Proofs
Illustration of a Dog Proof Trap
Dog proof traps, also known as a DP, are a cylinder-shaped trap primarily used for target raccoon and the occasional skunk. The traps are dog proof because the dog isn’t able to put its paw in the trap. In order for it to fire the raccoon must reach into the trap and grab the trigger. This makes the dog proof trap extremely useless when trapping where there is a chance of people and dogs being present.
How to set
Depress the spring with either a setting tool, flathead screw driver, or by hand
Flip dog over the spring towards the trigger notch
Raise the trigger so the dog fits inside the notch
Release tension on the spring
Snares
Snares are a lightweight and cheap option to have with you on the trapline. Sometimes snow conditions or a trap shy animal make the uses of snares and cable restraints the best option to get the job at done. Although snares are a one time use only item, the parts like locks, swivels, etc. can be used multiple time. Snare making can be a fun skill to learn and a great way to pass the time in the shop at night.
When ordering snares be sure to look at your local game laws, as there are a lot of regulations around snaring. Some states or provinces require certain locks, breakways, deep stops, kill springs, etc. You’ll want to know about the different hardware involved so that you can make the right purchase. If you have any questions on how to interpret the regulations your local game warden or conservation officer should be able to help you get those answers.